Monday, December 17, 2007

Wecome Home


Welcome Home Adam.

Just wanted to thank you for letting us enjoy your adventure from afar with this blog. It really meant a lot to the whole family. I bet Key Center looks pretty big now. And if you can't find Sparkey. I shared your adventures with him.

tommy

Saturday, December 15, 2007

Coming Home

Mon Dec 17 2007

838

BKK-NRT

6:40

14:15

F

12-12-07

49-50-02

197-197-05

Mon Dec 17 2007

876

NRT-SEA

16:55

8:22

F

10-04-04

45-30-03

198-199-00

posted by tommy

Saturday, December 1, 2007

Cambodia


Fueling up the moto-bikes in Ban Lung


Chicken anyone? Sunset over the Lake at my current Guesthouse



Gillnetting in the Mekong (Laos) Ban Lung - Captial city of Ratanakiri Province
All is well in Cambodia, got bailed out by mom and dad the other day on an emergency western union transfer. Got into the capital Phnom Penn two days ago at two in the morrning after a 12hour-turned 19 hour bus ride. Broke down twice, the first time they got it going again, the second time we camped out for three hours or so. We lucked out and broke down infront of someone's house, and there was a small booth that sold warm beer/snaks down the road a short walk. The family's house that we broke down in front of made us all rice and eggs for lunch and everyone pretty much hung out under the shade of a tree, playing guitar, cards, reading, it really wasn't that bad..but we got in real late. Right now I'm staying in an area "lake side" which is really nice, happens to be on a lake, and is a nice laid back place despite being in the capital. I think I'll stay here two more days before heading to Siem Riep and checking out the temples around the area, Ankor Wat is the biggest, but there are many surrounding temples and I hear two day passes are a must. Tomarrow a group of us are going to go check out S-21, the Killing Fields and the Museum, not a light hearted day, but a must do sorta thing. Still torn about when to come home, it's earlier or later/ Key Penninsula or Vietnam. I'll figure it out soon...
I'm off for now, Adam

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Made it to Cambodia






Bill and Robin got a phone call from Adam in Cambodia last evening 11/26 .We look forward to a new post from Adam the travler.


tommy

Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Haven't broke my neck...yet -=]


Well after a few crazy days in Vang Viene the we decided to sell the bikes and move on to Vientiene via a kyak trip. Well it was mostly a ride in the back of a pickup truck, but there were a few hours of kyaking in there somewhere. A good cliff jump at lunch added some fun to the day. I'm in Vientiene right now, the capital city, but it's expensive (okay not that expensive, but relativley) I paid six dollars for a "mexican" feast last night, there seemed to be some creative flavours mixed in there, more indian (as in India) than Mexican, but delicous non the less. It's $15 dolars a night to stay in a big room with three beds (5$ each). Compared to the three-dollar a night sweet I had in Vang Viene, which by the way is one of my favorite spots ever. The plan is to hit the Islands in the Southern end of Laos before moving into Cambodia for a few days, and on to Vietnam. I hope Dwight is up for some South-Vietnam sunshine, cause it would be great to meet up when he gets in (around the first I think). I wont be making it to the Islands/beaches in Southern Thailand, and feel like I need another three months to finish what I've started over here, but know I will be back at a latter time and can hit the spots I missed. I register for class on the 27th of November and have a good schedual figured out already, it's a 13 credit load (a little light) but should be great, and leaves me tues/thurs off, to get up to the mountains. I'm trying to get PLSC 271: Intro to International Relations, INTL 201: Intro to Global Studies, and PHIL 364: History of Philosophy (Ancient). I will miss Thanksgiving, but when I'm swinging in my hammock at the side of the Mekong I'll have plently of time and reasons to be thankfull...Love you all,

Adam

Friday, November 16, 2007

Made It !! ~ Viange Viene









Fewwwwwwwww, what a reliefe to roll into Viange Viene. The cycling was beautiful, better than I would have imagined, exhausting but good. The scenery was incredible, the hills brutall. The first day had the hardest climbing (go figure) and 70km (70Km * .62 = 43.4mi)into it at sunset (1km=0.62mi) I caught a truck the final 9km to our guesthouse, Jorn joined me, Daniel is an animal and rode another 45minuets in the dark. The first climb of the day was 600M vertical over 10km, the next climb 1000M vertical over 25km, which led right up to the village where we stayed. The second day we rode 76km to the hotsprings and was considerably better than the first day, only one big climb, a 10km hill. The second night we stayed right next to a huge jagged-rock mountain, the guesthouse had hotsprings right next to it, and we all got our own bungalows for 5$ each. We were quick to ditch the bikes, grab a beer and get into the hotspring. Today (day three) was awesome, despite being pretty soar in the morning my muscles warmed up and we charged a little hill to start before dropping through a gorgeous valley (lord of the rings'esc) and rode on the flats for a long time, covered 75km again today. Stopped at one point at a watermellon stand and got outa the sun and into some delicous mellons. ...And now I go get a beer, a massage, some dinner, and a huge nights sleep, I think we'll stay here for three days or so before continuing on to Vientiene...love you all, adios



Adam

Monday, November 12, 2007

Drum Roll...


Photo op. with one of the guides...

Kids (brothers?) in the second village we visited...


Part of our trekking group, just arrived at first village
Mud-wall house in the second village

Daniel helping load a bike, Jorn just lovin it
(click on pictures to enlarge)



The Trek in Luang Nam Tha was beautiful. There were eight of us (plus two guides), two couples, an english teacher, and the three of us (Jorn, Daniel, and I). The first day we hiked for four hours or so before coming out of the forest into this surreal little Hmong village. It reminded me of MYST (the computer game) in that you didn't see much of the villagers, there were the huts with smoke rising from the leaf-thatched roofs, there were the animals, chickens, pigs, dogs, goats, a couple cows, one horse, the kids weren't as shy, and would come about curiously only to run off laughing in mock-fear. I kicked a ball around with one little guy for a bit and a few other children looked on but didn't want to join in. It's hard to explain but it was a great experience. I didn't take that many pictures of the kids, or the few villagers that looked on from their doorways, my fellow trekkers were shooting away, but it just felt strange verging on disrespectful, and the camera stayed in my pocket most of the time. At dinner the village chief came to eat with us, and after dinner our guide translated our questions to him. There were around 160 people living in the village, they were completly dependant on thier crops, animals and forest for food. Trekkers started coming to the village in 2005, and the money goes to the village bank which, we were told, went straight to improving the education system, books, pens, etc. Most of us also brought a few childrens books to give as thankyou's. The next night we slept over in a village that showed some modern influence, a generator, a road connecting them to the rest of northern Laos, and villagers that would approach with handmade things asking for a dollar or two. This night was different in that the lady that came to dinner brought a bottle of lao lao (rice whisky) it is strong...it twists your face and makes your stomach cringe...and it gets the job done. Well most of us were drinking it, the bottle was finished and then there was an awkard translation from one of our guides, that we should all share the price of drinks or something to that effect. No one really understood, but we all pitched in a dollar (10,000 kip), for what we thought was the bottle that we just drank. Ten minuets latter booze arrives, another bottle of lao lao and five or six beer lao's. Eh nobody saw that one coming, things went on for a while and we were having a great time. This old lady was very persistant in giving out shots around the table and then saying Ok? Ok? Ok? She was showing the booze more than the rest of us, and after a few enthusiastic high-fives toppled backwards off the bench...oops. She was fine, our guides cut her off from the booze (well we had to hide the bottle under the table). After we got back to Luang Nam Tha the trio of us took our guide up on an invitation for a dog barbeque (don't tell Sparkey). It was really chewy, good flavor I guess, not something I'll search out in the future.



And now I'm the proud owner of a Merida mountain bike...purchased in Laung Nam Tha for $120US, it seems like a good bike. Daniel Jorn also bought bikes, and we brought them down to Laung Prabang yesterday (via 9hrs on a mini-bus) and plan on leaving here tomarrow morning. Were sending our backpacks ahead, bringing only a small bag. Should be three days to Viang Viene where we'll meet up with our bags, spend a few days floating lazily down the river on innertubs before resuming our journey to Vientiene... It's going to be great.

Your probabley tierd of reading, I'm tierd of wirtting =], so check back in a few days for an update from Vang Viene..



Adios for now,
Adam

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Nong Kiaw - Luang Nam Tha


Well never actually made it to Muong Noi...stopped at Nong Kiaw instead, stayed three days, moved onto Luang Nam Tha, and will do a three day trek tomarrow with both Jorn(Holland) and Daniel(Germany). They're good company and it's nice for a change to be travelling with a group. Were going to make an all out effort to buy mountain bikes and bus them from here to Luang Probang, before starting on an all out charge South to Vang Vien and then on the Vientiene where we hope to sell the bikes...it's a long haul, but were planning it out, and are

following in the footsteps of one of Daniel's friends who lent us his itinerary complete with good stops etc. We hope to complete the journey 7-10 days after departing Luang Prabang. Went fishing with some locals in Nong Kiaw for two dollars US, went wadding up a good sized creek, throwing out a net, beating the water with sticks and catching minnows...but enough minnows make a meal, and by the end of the day we had a good snak of our deep fried minnows, that baby in the picture was our guides brother's. The man that led us out envited us (Daniel and Jorn and myself) to dinner at his parents. It was actually part of the death rite for his father who had passed on seven days earlier. It was a great experience, and all of us have wrist-fulls of these strings that all of the relatives tied to us for good luck, also got pretty drunk on the local rice whisky simply called "lao lao." Got an authentic hair cut two days ago complete with a shave... and what a shave, no water or anything and a razor-knife, it was incredibly painful, the local kids were laughing the whole time through, so anyways I'm looking sharp =]. Then an all day bus/truck travel day and here we are in Luang Nam Tha, anyways all is well...I'm over the fever and just have a small residual caugh, I'll keep you posted on how the lead up to the bike trip goes, we hope our trek will get us slightly conditioned but I think the first two days of riding will be tough. Love you all, Adios

P.S. I messed the pictures up, have too many to get on here, but will try again next time

Friday, November 2, 2007

Moving on --Muang Ngoi




Here comes some adventure, I'm heading 6hours north up the Nam Ou river tomarrow with a guy that I've run into all over the place, I think the plan is to stay there a day or two, then head west acros Laos to Luang Nam Tha province where there is supposedly some great trekking, and a thing called the gibbons experience (google it if you want to learn more) that I really hope to go to. It's hard to book last minute but it could work out, people miss there dates etc. Its an eco tour sort of thing all up in the trees with zip lines to a from. Everyone thats been says it's incredible...one older couple said they'd been traveling for a years and it was an all-time experience for them...so I'm hopefull that will work out. Today I rented a bike with the same guy I'll be traveling with, who's name I can't remember right now, that was a good time, but I look forward to the ride up the river tomarrow, it's supposed to be goreous...All is well, I wont be around internet till Luang Namtha I believe so maybey a week? maybe a bit longer...love Adam

Wednesday, October 31, 2007

Luang Prabang



Click HERE for more pictures
Luang Prabang
I'm feeling so much better today, still have a bit of a caugh and a stuffy nose, but no more fever, and I've slept like a baby the past two nights, which was a huge reliefe. Laos is incredible so far. Yesterday went to a waterfall with Smiley from the boat and his girlfriend Bea, along with four others that we split that cab tab with. One of the great things about backpacking around is that you constantly run into familiar faces, it's so fun to run into someone you thought youd likely never see again, a couple weeks later, in a different country...and so it goes. The water falls were incredible, the water was an aqua blue, with just enough silt/minerals caught up in it to give it a foggy look, hard to explain but just goreous, set in a bamboo jungle the water ran over these limestone deposite terraces and into big pools, I could just imagime tigers and the likes stopping by for a drink. The only tiger we saw was a rescued one, but what a creature that was. You could go for a swim in the larger pools, they even had a good rope swing at one. Ran into many familiare faces there, a few from Pai, another ten or so from the slow boat. I was going to leave tomarrow for the plain of jars with a group from the boat, but want to go north first and actually get around to doing a trek, so I'm going to make that happen. Today I felt like wandering around Laung Prabang and taking some photos but cloud cover was too bright and fouled up most the shots. After eating breakfast I walked outside and saw a lady and an olderguy negotiating with a tuk tuk driver over the price of a ride. I wanted to go to the other waterfall in the area, but these two were headed for a cave. I decided to join along for 5 dollars or so and am glad I did. The caves were fully of little/medium/large buddahs just sitting here there and everywhere. This two individuals I ended up going with were some real charicters. The women was a 28 year old canadian princess of sorts (and I mean that largley in terms of attitude), and the old guy was a bit of a hippie but easy going a great for conversation. It was one of the better random experiences I've had over here as far as odd-ball group dynamics creating a great time. She was in a rush to get to the caves and get back, she had a bus to catch at a certain time, the old guy didn't believe in time and showed no concern and I tended to follow suit finding her distress subtely amussing. After worrying about for a bit she finally accpeted the fact that she was going to miss her bus, and have to wait till saturday to leave.
The old hippie was telling her greater powers were at hand, and we were all enjoying each others company. We had a good visit to the caves, and all planed on meeting up for a few drinks and a dinner later on, but when we got back the bus was waiting for her... I think we were all dissapointed a bit...Hopefully tomarrow I'll do a waterfall, and hike up the Wat (temple) on the hill in the center of town for sunset and make my way north the next day...

Sunday, October 28, 2007

Living Large in Laos


I think this is a big rice barge but your guess is as good as mine


My buddy from Isreal on the boat, I'll never remember his name, it's very Hebrew


This little guy was incredibly curious about my headphones so I let him at check them out for a while...



Thats a fistfull of Kip, mostly 20,000kip notes... About $2 each





Hello from Laos! Still internet Cafes everywhere..The bus ride from Pai to Chiang Kahn was rediculous. We were supposed to arive around 6:00am for some breakfast before crossing into Laos, my guess is that the bus driver had a deal with the guesthouse where we were supposed to eat breakfast because we arrived around 3:30am, so everyone needs a room for a couple hours. Besides feeling worked over a little it was no big deal to pay for the room. The bad part was the bus ride itself, there was absolutley NO WAY to sleep on that bus, so for 5 hours or so we were bouncing up and down, peeling around corners at mach 10. Our driver was driving like it was a one lane road, and he was on some sort of time trial. Nobody slept. Well the group survived, and made it into Laos. Soon after arriving in Laos some 100 people boarded the slow boat for a two day trip down the Mekong river to Luang Prabang. The boat ride was great, met tones of people, even found a way to escape the crowd and crawl around to the bow where I soaked up some sun by myself for a while before being joined by Smiley, at least I think that was his name. We stopped at a little town "Pakbenge" for the night and walked into the middle of the last day of the festival I wrote about earlier, except this is rural Laos, and these people were drunk and armed with all sorts of firecrackers. It was pretty bizzare really, the boat pulls in and theres a big crowd of locals on the shore/hillside throwing these firecrackers amongst themselves, laughing, having a good time, but these firecrackers were loud, and fairly large, no one wanted to be first to get off the boat into the crossfire, but we did, and made a dash for it. Pretty exciting really. Later that night, after dinner I went for a walk with a couple of Irish girls and it became a dash, a run. I can only imagine since the locals seemed to enjoy throwing these little bombs at each other the thrill of tossing a few at some tourists must be tenfold, I had two go off right by me, one I could feel right by my foot the other was airborn a couple feet away. It sounds a bit more dangerous than it really was, but what a laugh we had running back and forth up this hill looking in every direction for incoming firecrackers.


I've been a bit sick for three days or so, but really am doing fine and trying to take it easy. The doctor said it was Tonselities+ an upper airway infection or something fun like that. I was realieved to visit a clinic and hear that my achy feverish caugh was easily treated by a five day course of antibiotics, and wasn't anything too serious. I'm about half way through with my meds. and feel so much better already. I'm going to a steam sauna tonight and I'll sweat it out a bit.


I changed out 2,700Baht earlier today (80ish US) and recieved roughly 750,000kip. It really seems like monopoly money, I'm definitly not used to it, all I know is that dinner for two last night at a fancy little indian restraunt with a couple drinks and appitisers cost 93,000kip. I'm not used to kip and thought I had seriously blown the budget, that was a shock, then I realized it was just under $10 US, strange really, well I'm out for now, Adios,




Adam

Thursday, October 25, 2007

1 U.S. dollar = 31.585597 Thai baht


The dollar is slipping! I got 34 baht to the dollar when I first arrived. Dwight said he was getting 38 to 1 when he was here in the Spring. Oh welll, whatcha gunna do (buy euros?). Well my bus leaves tonight at 10:00pm to Chiang Khan where I cross the boarder/ Mekong River into Laos. I hope the internet services are as good there, but i doubt it, don't stress if I'm out of contact for a bit. I had some delicous banna pancakes for breakfast this morning, I'm uploading some pictures right now, then will burn my memory card onto a CD and start Laos fresh, I hear Laos is a traveling photographers dream come true (so long as he/she doesn't step on one of the many UXO that the US so graciously left these people to deal with). Lets just say I'll be sticking to the beaten trail...Grrr the pictures failed to go, somehow I got one of the rafting up, but can't get the others up. Some other time =]..Adios for now, Adam

Moving on to Laos...

After soaking up Pai for a couple weeks I'm going to push on (it would be easy to stay). Next stop Luang Prabang, Laos. The place is supposed to be incredible. I'll get a two week visa at the boarder crossing and plan on staying the full time. I plan to see Vientiane (the capital), Luang Prabang, do some toobing down the river in Vang Vien, who knows what else, before moving into Vietnam.
Pai has been good to me. I met a local brother/sister who are awesome and know everyone in the place, Fook and Jane. They showed me around the nightlife and know whats going on. The town pretty much closes around 1:00am with the exception of a few late night spots that really aren't that special. I've been pretty much lazy and loving it. Yesterday I got back from a two day river rafting trip that was fun, but much slower paced than the pictures in the pamphlet would have you imagine.
This is day two of a three day celebration over here, I'm still not clear what exactly is being celebrated, but it has to do with Buddha, last night there were hundreds of these lanterns floating around in the sky, pretty cool sight (they work like mini hot-air balloons), and the streets are packed full of locals, tourists and the likes milling around. There are three stages set up, live music and of course incredible food. I guess that about wraps it up, I can't get the picture uploader to work, I might try again tomorrow...love you all. Adam

Thursday, October 18, 2007

Pai








This is a great little spot, growing rapidly. Laid back, clean, set In a tropical farming valley. My favorite thing so far is getting on my rented 125cc motobike, and go cruisng out the main road, up these winding roads and soaking up the views. In the surrounding countryside, it's strage being surrounded by agriculture that probably hasn't changed much for thousands of years. You really get that feeeling except from the clothes and the moto-bikes, that is place has been opperating off the land for a very very long time in a similare fashion. Thats out-side of Pai, Pai it's self is a liberal sort of place, and at night the streets come alive. Streetside bars just start pulling chairs out and sitting people around. Live music, and lots of stray dogs. Or at least pretty wild dogs with homes, they run around in packs of five or six wagging thier tales sniffing up and down the street, looking for handouts, they're not out to cause trouble. I'm staying in this great little spot, I'll post some pictures of it. I paid for another four nights, then I'll be doing some rafting and a trek before likely moving on into Laos. Yesterday I took the bike out to this massive cave and for five bucks paid a guide and a bamboo raft man to show me around. So a river flows into the mouth of this cave, and to get in you hope on a bamboo raft and have a seat while a local polls you through to a shore inside the cave. It definitly feels out of a some pirate movie, the light source being some old gas lantern. Pretty cool spot. I guess at night some 300,000 birds come flying into the cave, replacing the population of bats that live in it during the day. I wasn't thier for the changing of the guards but can only imagine it's quite the sight. Don't have any realy plans for the day but after lunch I might investigate the pool thats supposedly around here, other than that I'm in the middle of a couple books and saoking it up..
Hope all is well, Adam.

P.S. The beg bugs stayed in Bangkok and the itchy rash they left me dissapeared a couple of days ago.

More about Pai click HERE

Pictures: Muay Thai Boxing in Chiang Mai // Having a drink on top of the state tower with Peter in BKK // A cat with a sense of humor //
Elephants chained to at thier post, waiting for a passenger, Elephant rides are a big deal around here.//A short hike off the side of the road led me into "Pai Cannyon."//A stop on the way to the canyon for a cup of coffeee//...more to come

Thursday, October 11, 2007

Chiang Mai

Click Map to Enlarge
Just arrived in Chiang Mai this morning...12hour train ride up here was really good, the train left BKK at 7:45 last night and got in 1o:oo this morning. The "sleeper train" had really comfortable beds and I slept like a baby. I'm not sure what I'm going to do next, I think I'll stay here one more day, then go to nearby Pai for some out-of-the-way but highly recomended down time. Everyone's trying to sell treks out into the hills around here, which is something I really want to do, but I want to find a good outfit, and its hard to tell what your signing up for. I'll shop around a little and hopefully run into people who had an awesome time on their trek...We'll see. I've officially been bed bugged, I'm not sure if they followed me here or not, but I'm not going to use my sleeping bag till it gets washed. The bites are itchy lil bastards but no real big deal. I'll try to get some CHiang Mai pics posted here in the next day or so, all is well, bye for now, Adam
Click HERE to learn more about Chaing Mai

Monday, October 8, 2007

BKK!





Hello from Bangkok!~
All is well over here, been having a great time. I finally feel calibrated, just a slight change from home..It's been so good to have Peter and Andrew around, I wouldn't have seen half of the sights of Bangkok without them. The markets are unreal! Never ending, everywhere, I'm not even a shopper but I'm in heaven, I walk around for a while, find somethign that catcehs my eye, try my luck at bartering (which is sort of addicting) and walk away with whatever. The place I'm staying right now is prety nice, I have my own room with bathroom and shower, walk downstairs in the morning for some coffee and breakfast. The food is delicious and cheap..the downside is I'm pretty sure MSG is the new salt. I explored Grand Palace yesterday, walked around for hours taking pictures and soaking it up.Last night Peter and I went up the state tower for a beer at the rooftop bar, 64 floors above Bangkok..Gorgeous! My plan is to hang out here till thursday before heading north to Chiang Mai, I'll keep posting... Well I'm off for now, Adios!
PS. You can Enlarge the pictures by clicking on them

Thursday, October 4, 2007

Off to Asia

 Thu Oct 4 2007  875  SEA-NRT 12:41  14:55  F  
 Fri Oct 5 2007  837  NRT-BKK 18:30  23:10  F  
 Sat Dec 15 2007  838  BKK-NRT 6:40  14:15  F  
 Sat Dec 15 2007  876  NRT-SEA 16:55  8:22  F

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Tempe Arizona!

In AZ hanging out with Dale for a few days. It's hot down here..90ish, I guess its not hot for Arizona, but for Westport/Washignton it's smokin. And I just got the news this morning...Sardines 07' is over! I'm freeee, the cannery officially laid off the boat. I'm not sure what the new plan is. I'm going to hang out and relax for a few down here and mull it over...Asia???

Monday, September 17, 2007

Sardine's Part One: Wrapped Up


Sept. 17th: This is great. Just relaxing at home, for the first time since I left for Alaska back in June! Sardines are pretty exciting, a real change of pace from tender life. I guess the plan is I'll be home for two weeks and head back out to Westport October first to finish off the season. While on break here, I'm going to visit Dale down at school in Arizona, hopefully leaving this Weds. and getting back mondayish. So far so good. One really hairy day out there fishing, or at least it felt that way to me. It was Jacobs first day as our skiffman, his second day on the boat, his second day seining. Convieniently it was also the stormiest day of the season so far, blowing 15-20knots, raining, ugly. After deciding it was too rough to set, we turned around, headed back towards westport. The waves seemed to come down a little closer to shore, so Capt. decided to "lay one out." Johna, Jacob and I get the deck ready for a set, hook the skiff up on the quick release, and attached the end of the net to the mighty Elk Tuna. We were ready to go. Now we wait for Greg to position us in front of the school of sardines, and give us the word. Jacobs in the skiff, I'm on top of the web pile, ready to reIease the Elk Tuna (our skiff) and Johna stands by to relay the message from Greg on the flybridge to us on the back deck. Aparently all the wave action, jerking the skifff around behind the boat, torqued the release, and "clank" the skiff was off before anyone was ready for it...fortunatley Jacob was standing by in the skiff and gunned it to keep up with the Voyager, preventing the net from flying off the boat before we wanted it to. Semi-disaster number one, delt with, we pull what little net went off back into the boat and set up again. Soon after Johna hollers "Let 'r Goooo." I yank the release, it makes a metal on metal sound when it pops open, and Jacobs off, he spins the skiff 180 degrees and guns it. The net gets off the boat just fine. The hand off, when the skiff passes his end of the net back to the boat, was a little spooky as a wave almost threw the skiff right onto the deck, but we got both ends of the net, and started the hual. Jacob cruised around to the other side of the Voyager and hands off his tow line, I hook him in and he takes off, towing us off the net. So the Tuna, Jacob at the helm, is roaring, dipping out of sight between the waves, trying to beat the wind and waves, which are pushing the Voyager into our net. The voyager's got a heavy roll going and all the sudden, snap, the two inch braided tow line breakes. Way out on the skiff end of the tow line Jaocb hears a small explosion next to his ear as the line lets go. Now the wind is blowing the Voyager into the net, Greg and Johna are yelling and screaming for Jacob to go get the end of the line and tie it back onto the skiff. Jacob gets his Pike pole and hangs out over the edge of the skiff and scoops up the line, gets it tied off and starts towing again, he tows till the boat is safely downwind of the net. The rest of the haul goes smoothly, we pulled up forty tones of sardines, skiffman keeps our bow into the swell while we are pumping. An hour later and I'm on the very back of the boat trying to get the skiff hooked back up. In order to do this, the skiff cruises up behind us, with a line wedged up on its nose where I can grab it. When it gets within an arms reach I grab his line, pull it through a small hole in the stern and hook it up to a hydraulic winch, and tighten it up till the skiff is pegged into our stern. The Elk Tuna was literally surfing down huge waves at this point and at times pointing right into the back of the Voyager, it was intense, but we nailed it. Jacob was pale, Greg says that seining is controlled chaos, and that chaos almost got the best of us.. On the run back to town, I hung out on the back deck and smoked two cigarrets with Jacob, and I normaly don't smoke. The next morning while we were taking ice, our ice man hollered down " you guys hear about the Papa George?" The Papa
George was another sardine siener, fishing maybey fifty miles south of us. No what happened? "It went down yesterday, capsized, the crew made it to shore in the skiff, the Captain and his girlfriend didn't make it"...I guess it was a malfunctioning bildge pump, the boat started listing bad on the run back to port, and rolled over. That put a really eiry feeling in the air, almost nauseating at first. Not that I knew the captain or crew personally, but when the Voyager first got into westport, it was us, the Bainbridge and the Papa George fishing sardines. Now it was only the Bainbridge and the Voyager. It took two or three days, before this feeling of incredible vulnerability lifted from the Voyager, It was really strange, my sense of safety was completely lost, even though the weather came back down over night... The final set we made before I came home was also pretty exciting, but thankfully for other reasons. We wrapped up a huge school of sardines, and about halfway into our haul we realized we'd wrapped up a little more than that. First I'll mention that its a huge relief when the fish show in the net, because sometimes we don't catch anything, and making a set is a lot of work for no fish. But this set the fish show...everywhere, and in numbers. They do this thing when they're really thick, it's like the wave at a sports game. Thousands of fish will hit the surface in a spot, all at once, jumping, going crazy and form that spot a wave of fish do the same thing rushing out in a particular direction. Its wild to see, sometimes I just hear it like an intense downpour or hailstorm ripping across the water. So on this set, the fish are doing "the wave" when in the middle of it a big old tail flops up...a whale. So imagine the feeling like, yes! there's enough fish in there! were done, heading in for the day, and it's so early too! (it's a really good feeling), then imagine the..Oh no, that's definitely a whale in the net, terrible, make it go away, we're going to have to let all the fish go to get that beast out of there feeling, sort of like your car just ran out of gas in the middle of nowhere feeling. That was the roller coaster we were ridding, just before we let the whole thing go, the whale charged the net and broke strait through. Now we have a whole the size of a volkswagen bus out there that the fish could easily escape from so we start hauling gear like mad trying to get that hole back on board before the fish find the hole. A couple of minutes later and the hole is coming over the roller, we pull it out so we can mend it later. I can still hear the occasional burst of fish out in the net, so there's some left in there anyways. We get close to all dried up, the waters boiling, like it does when there's a ton of sardines in there (not literally boiling, but the fish swimming in the net move enough water to make the surface look sort of like it's boiling) and then the corks go down, just disappear below the surface, the fish dove, dragging the net and corks down with them. An untold amount of fish are spilling out of the net now, Greg is wheeling the net onboard as fast as his block will allow. The corks were down for probably 30 seconds or so before returning to the surface with what appears to be an incredible amount of fish still in the net. Sure enough there were enough fish in that set to plug us, and the Bainbridge. Greg called the Bainbridge over the radio, told them we had enough for both of us, so they pulled up, dropped their pump into our net and loaded up, all told, between the two boats a little over 220 thousand pounds of sardines were landed from that one set. When I left Westport, our boat's total catch was closing in on two million pounds caught and delivered. P.S. thats a picture of the thresher shark we caught, it was huge! probably 10' long from tail to nose.

First Set of the Season...


Aug 20th: Day two fishing, we made our first sets yesterday, four to be exact. The first was awesome. Ross our greenhorn skiffman, and me, have never made a seine set in our lifes, and here we are, spotter plane circling a big old school of sardines, in radio contact with Captain. Greg hollers down from the flybridge "cut 'r loose!!" Johna, the six year vet of the fishery, yanks the "bear trap" and sets Ross free in the skiff. Ross executes his turn, points directly off the stern and guns it. The net whips off the back deck, the corks making a popping noise as they peel over the stern. A minute latter and Greg is making every effort to get Ross's attention, who seems to be heading in the same direction as us, making a long narrow set...not desirable. Gregs incohrent screams fill the air, his blasting on the horn, Ross can't hear any of it over the roar of the "Elk Tuna." Thats our skiff, the Elk Tuna, powered by some old school bus motor, and she roars. It looks like someone once named it the elk, and then later was tagged with tuna, so thoes two words are faintly painted on the rear of the skiff in two different styles, but there's something catchy about the name "elk tuna", or just Tuna for short and so it is . Well we close up set numero uno, Ross circles around in the skiff, hands off the other end of the net, and we're all hooked up. My job is to stack the corks as they come down from the block onto deck, if there's a since to it i've yet to discover it. I just scramble around on a pile of cork, laying it out in broken figure eights. A perk to the corks is that they stack on the opposite side of the boat from where the net is being hauled, so the waterfall of loose sardines, jellies, dogfish and the likes fall over on Jonah, who stacks the lead line. When most of the net is back on board, I see some sardines frantically leaping at one of the corners of the net. There's some fish in there after all. As we pull more net on board, pockets of fish that got caught up in the web start spilling out over the block, I'm thinking how do we get these into the hatch? But we don't, that hundred pounds or so is nothing compared to the sixty thousand odd pounds still in the net. "Unbelievable" says Johna, he couldn't believe we were into the fish on the first set of the season. We got the net all "dried up" mean all the net is back on board except for the very end "the bunt" where are the fish concentrate in a thick frenzy. We lift a large pump into the netted up fish sitting along side of the boat and start pumping them into our hatch. Everyone's stoked, Greg can't believe it, Ross and I don't know quite what to make of it, except we both like what we were seeing. At one point, Ross, staring into the net, looking at the 35 tons of squirming sardines along side, chew in lip, says "I wonder what it would feel like to be in there...naked." I busted up laughing, what an honest thought. Well the next two sets were for nothing, and on the fourth we filled up the boat then ran back into Westport. Then the waiting game, we waited in line to pump out from 9:00 pm till 1:00 am. Greg took off for a walk, the three of us crew were on the boat when the stove started making some crazy noises, Johna cracked open the front and flames burst out. The fire was contained in the stove, but was much larger than the usual flame that heats it. Not sure what to do we watched it for a while, but there was quite a bit of flame and smoke, we thought there might be a stack fire. The stove stack started glowing and when Jonah peeked inside again a flame burst out right back at him, he grabbed a fire extinguisher and let at it. We were all exhausted, couldn't find Greg anywhere, and weren't really sure what to do. The flame was contained in the stove, but the dry chem fire extiguishers would only put out the flame long enough for it it re-egnite. The galley filled up with acrid diesle smoke. Jonah had turnd off the fuel to the stove when we first figured something was up so we though it would burn out. Eventually it did, sort of a strange episode, I don't think there was a serious threat of the fire getting out of the stove, but it got us a little riled up. One in the morning, and we finally got the go ahead to pull up to the pump. At around four-thirty, we were done pumping and tied up in position to ice up in the morning. P.S. we caught a couple of these gorgeous King Salmon early in the season.

Start of Sardine Season


Friday Aug. 17-- After a couple days of of network, we loaded up the boat and left Lower Hadlock, bound for Neah Bay. Today we're sitting around waiting for the weather to change. Looks like we'll be fishing tomorrow, seining for sardienes, it should be interesting. Neah bay's harbor is loaded with cool old wood boats, most are derelicts, weathered paintjobs, rusty gear, but loaded with character. Its been rainy, then sunny, followed by a downpour, then back to sunny. Not a whole lot going on, feeling out the new boat, the Voyager, and how things are done aboard. Definitly a different style then Guy. Hopefully by tomorrow night we're loaded with sixty tons of sardines and headed into Westport to unload our first catch of the season...
Sat. Aug 18 -- And were off! Departed Neah bay around 6:30 this morning, squalls, grey sky with a bit of swell. Shortly after getting under way we shot a gap between an island and a rocky coastline,
smooth cliff surfaces with several tunnel-holes, the larger ones still support trees on their topside. Several tall rock formations standing alone out in the waves remind me of the heads on easter island. The swell has put Ross, one of my fellow crew down with a bit of the sickness. Things are fairly helter-skelter on deck, Greg gives a good shot at teaching but the message usually gets scrambled in excitement, haste and a few wild hand-arm gestures that aren't particularly helpful. Jonah, the guy thats been working on the Voyager for the past six years, gets a little frustrated between the simplicity of the tasks, the captains explanations, and our attempts to follow orders. It's pretty funny, were usually laughing. Once we start fishing things should clear up a bit. Seems like experience always beets out a hearty explanation. All is well, hopefully we'll be catching some sardines here shortly...
Well the original plan was to load up with fish on the run from Neah bay to Westport. All looked good, the depth sounder and sonar lit up, Greg gave the yell "Jiggers" and two of us moved up to the bow, fishing polls in hand. He gave us the go ahead and our jiggs drop, seconds latter four of my six hooks are consumed by sardines. We found em, they wern't the big ones that fetch the best price, but they were sardines. Greg positioned us right off a large school and we made ready to set. One small problem, the hydraulics were sucking air, why? because there wasn't enough hydraulic oil in the tank. Small oversight that no one checked it before departure. So we bagged the set and ran for Westport. I found it ironic that with this massive net on the boat we were using herring jigs to sample the fish.

Tuesday, July 31, 2007

Boredom!!!



The last couple of days have brought the first real boredom spells of the season. These are different than the normal 'what to do now?' feelings that can be easily solved by picking up a book or listening to some music. This is real boredom, existential boredom, you can feel it to the core and it isn't because you have a few idle hours, it's because the fishing has essentially dropped off, two of the three boats that are still fishing are the boys, Dale and Jake, the other is an exercise in patience. The first few days of the slow season were pretty cool, sort of like "hey cool! look I'm getting paid to do nothing!" Well that's a short lived sensation, now the feeling is more of an "oh my God, you couldn't pay me enough to do nothing for another day!" And the problem is there still is work to be done but it's so remedial, and all for a few pounds of fish. When there's nothing to be done but wait for a few fish, when they finally arrive the small tasks involved in dealing with them cleverly hide a mental days worth of work, and for some reason it really feels that way, boat herself is slow in the motions, everything literally takes longer, efficiency goes out the window because there is no pressing need to be quick and efficient. Time creeps, we all still get paid, but the real function, our job, the work we get paid to do is so slim. I can hardly fathom why these days are more difficult than the labour intensive, nose to the grindstone days when boats are actually fishing and need us around. This sort of experience speaks loudly for the mentally rewarding aspect of hard work, it feels good to work, when at the end of the day you are exhausted but know that the keep was earned; its hard to even describe what a day like today felt like. Not depressing, not exhausting, just going through the motions, and being bored to death of those motions, they aren't challenging or new, exciting or entertaining, thinking that I could find someone else to come up and replace me, that I could do just fine with the money I've already made. After floating around for hours this morning I finally experienced the moment I was hoping would relieve me from the mental doldrums. Nothing specific, just relief, a sudden comic take on the situation, it gave me a crazy little grin when icing a fish in a five gallon bucket, I was doing it, I was actually icing a fish in a five gallon bucket, and it was hilarious. Yesterday was similar to today, I think it's just a transition, an adjustment from one style tendering to another, it'll be easier in a day or two, once this pace becomes routine. We were sitting around drinking a beer before dinner tonight when Guy stated what's been on my mind all day.. "It's going to be a long three weeks here, boredom makes time crawl..." Now if only I can get down on my hands and knees and crawl with it...Despite the boat's boredom, spirits are high, we had an awesome dinner tonight at Mosey's, enchiladas with green sauce and a fish taco...Right now I'm sitting on the roof of the Beryl E. trying to pickup a wireless conection from Haines. We're anchored out, but I seem to be getting a weak signal...P.S. The boat in that picture above is the Karluk, Kelsey and Dwight arn't getting along very well...conflicting personalities I guess.

A little Ice...



The fair was kinda a dud for me, wasn't nearly as fun when none of my buddies were around. The sun is back out today, we just iced up and are going to head back out to the grounds. Icing up is always quite a comedy, a large amount of physical/mental effort for such a basic task, I'll try to paint the picture, bare with me. So pretend your standing on the deck of the Beryl E, your tied along side of the cannery, you have a mission. There are twelve empty totes on the deck, and before you leave the dock they need to be filled with ice. But how? You look up and see an aluminum box, it looks like a large funnel up on the cannery dock with an old piece of 12" pump tubbing hanging out the bottom of it. That tube has an even larger piece of stiff plastic corrugated drain piping that fits over it, and extends the overall length of tubing. Note: and this is important, the larger piece isn't actually attached to the first length of tube, it's just been slid over it, in order to extend it, and the only thing that holds it there are two string that run from the tube up to the dock . You can tell this is a jerry-rigged operation but can't quite decide what function it serves, however there is a feeling in your gut that this is an important contraption. Someone up on the dock hollers down at you, disrupting your moment of contemplation. They tell you to lift the plastic tube onto deck and position it in one of the empty totes. Well, the tube is hanging straight off the bottom of the box, and when you try to lift it onto deck, you realize that its too long to just pull aboard, its length gets hung up on the side of the boat and its too stiff to bend it much, you try to walk it down the side and pull it over but that sucker is just too dam stiff and heavy. Turns out the only way to get it on board is to put a strap around it, hook one of the deck cranes too it and lift, then push the hose towards the stern until it pops up over the railing and comes swinging back in your general direction. Well now the hose is hanging over the deck, attached to the crane, resting in a position where it looks like anything coming out the end of it will shoot into an empty tote, things are looking good. Step one complete. Next a forklift appears on the dock, races over to the aluminum box with a tote, raises it up, flips it and dumps its contents into the box, to your amazement, shaved ice starts shooting out of the tube and into the tote in front of you. Gravity powered icing! How ingenious right? However from your vantage point it's quite apparent that what came out the end of the tube was much less than what went into the box, in fact it appears the majority of your ice is still stuck in the box. The forklift driver is a step ahead of you and is already attacking the jammed ice with a wooden rod, trying to get it to slide down the tube. He succeeds, and the rest of the ice roars down the corrugated tubing, taking the hose and the human thats trying to hold it in place (you) on a wild ride. Well all the ice has arrived in the tote, but low and behold its still not full! Its pretty close to full, but you have been made aware that it is a cardinal sin to put a lid on a tote that isn't completely full, that makes you almost one twelfth of the way through icing. Waiting for the next tote to arrive, you contemplate your place in life, and when it arrives you holler up "just dump a little, I need to top this one off", well a full quarter of a tote is released into the box and comes zinging out your end, hits the nearly full tote of ice and flies everywhere. That didn't work so well, and el capitan is right there to tell you "Hey that didn't work so well, did it? Maybe next time we try to get some ice into the tote eh?" The good news, after running around the deck with a shovel collecting lose slivers of ice, scooping them into the tote, it's actually full, and you can slap the lid on. One down, eleven to go, adjust the crane a little, push the tube forward to the next tote, holler the all clear to the guys on the dock, and a rush of ice latter, there's about a half tote of ice in front of you. Things seem to be going smooth. You repeat this process until on the fourth tote an over-zealous forklift driver dumps the ice into the funnel in a sloppy fashion, and you catch a good chunk of it right in the small of your back, that ice never made it into the box, just out over the dock and down to the boat, right where it found you and your back patiently holding that dam tube in place. Your alright though, the ice was soft enough, just a good shot of adrenaline really, you get back to the icing and things are going smoothly, five or six closest totes have been filled. Now the tube isn't long enough to reach the remaining empties. Ah, now here comes an enlightening moment, you learn the purpose of that corrugated tube. Turns out it conveniently slides up and down the first, smaller tube, to extend or shorten the overall length of the ice tube-aparatus, thats easy right? Well no, not exactly, because the smaller tube has ridges on the outside of it, and the corrugated tube is, well, corrugated, further complicating this delicate operation is the crane pulling on the end of the tube, putting a a soft elbow into it. The guys on dock un-tie the lines that hold that corrugated piece of tubbing in place and kaboom, absolutely nothing happens. Thats only because the magical ingredient to this operation hasn't been added yet, and you probably guessed it, that ingredient is you. It's okay though, all you have to do is grab the end of that corrugated tubing and pull and twist and jerk and yank, as the corrugated tube grates down the smaller tube, giving you a little more range. It's low tide, and you really have to extend the tube a ways to get the ice to reach the totes on the far side of the boat, but after a brief wrestling match, the tube is longer and things are starting to come together. You adjust the cranes again, until the position of the tube looks good to you, and you give the guys on dock the nod. As ice is dumped into the box, you hear the noise like ice is crashing down the tube, but strange, nothing comes out. The ice got stuck in the nearly horizontal end of the tube, but no worries, you just drop the tube with the crane and start beating on it with a shovel till the ice that's lodged in there breaks lose and sloughs out onto the deck, where you can shovel it into the tote. You decide to extend the tube a bit more, ease off on the crane and try again, hoping for better results. The forklift driver raises the next tote and dumps the ice. You hear a load noise...oh, this is bad, the corrugated tube, the extender, it has slipped off the first tube and now lies on deck! You over extended the ice tube! Disaster!! Ice flies everywhere and you have shovel it all up before coaxing the tubes back together and trying again...

That encompasses just about every incident I've had with the icing game up there at the cannery. Now I've got it down pretty well, and with several exceptions it goes pretty smoothly. There is still comedy in it, ice is a precious resource aboard and it cracks me up when people get worked up over it.. Im not sure if anyone else will follow that story or find it entertaining, but I'm going to write a few others that tackle other equally enjoyable duties aboard...

Friday, July 27, 2007

As of July 23rd...



Yea haw, today is day 30 of our 60 day contract, just relaxing on anchor now, reading, writing this, drinking coffee. I saw Harry two days ago. Had the night off in Haines, we went out to the 'Fog Cutter' and the Pioneer Bar, or P-bar as it's called. The fog cutter was quite, we had a beer, caught up, then wandered up to the P-bar, a band was just setting up, a lively crowd energized with booze and chatter crowded the place. I met a few of Harry's friends including a lady from Melbourne, AU. I chatted with her for a while, asked her about her favorite spots in Australia. Told her Jake and I traveled around down there a bit, but never made it to Melbourne. I told her Byron was my favorite, she said she liked it, but it was getting a little too trendy, then she said "but...there's a little place outside Byron, called Nimbin" she was grinning and gave Nimbin two thumbs up. I cracked up a bit, told her I'd been, what a wild little town. Also met some guys from the East coast who were river guides out here, one works at the mexican restaurant that we frequent. He recognized me as 'the kid from Mosey's'...Moseys is the best, the food isn't soaked in grease and cheese, but still has all the flavor, and presentation to boot. This guy works there when he's not on river trips. The owners of the place, Martha and Thad stewart, are old time river guides who fell in love with Haines when they were visiting and ended up relocating and opening up the restaurant. Anyways, had a good time listening to the music, chatting with interesting people.
Harry was telling me that Kelsey and Dwight were in Haines a couple days ago. Apparently they were having a few drinks out at Harry's and were riding around on his little 80cc motobike. D-wight was doing about thirty, trying to shift into fourth, and failed to notice a closed gate right in front of him. I guess he put a good gash in his head but was pretty lucky, the clinic wanted to put a couple stitches on him but he declined because it was going to be a hundred bucks a stitch or so. I saw him last night when the Karluk pulled into anchorage, we hollered back and forth at each other for a while and he says he's fine.
Turns out one of my friends from Big Sky, Tony, is working as a crew member on the gillnetter "Legacy," the legacy is in the Karluk's fleet. Kelso recognized him from the mountain. He worked in the lifty department with us. He'd been there a couple years, and had the best job, snowboarding around all day giving breaks to lifties. I road-tripped down to Brighton, Utah with him and a couple others for a weekend a couple of winters ago but haven't seen him since Big Sky. I told Guy, so we swung by the Legacy this morning and said hello. Next weekend is the State fair in Haines, so we made some tentative planes to meet up for that. With any luck the Karluk (with Kelsey, Dwight and Ron) will be there as well, we'll see.